Sunday, October 28, 2012

عيد مبارك! (Eid Mubarek!)

Eid Mubarek Said! 
This is the equivalent of Thanksgiving in a way.
Okay, so I stuck around for Eid Kiber (The Big Eid) this weekend, which is probably one of the biggest religious days for Muslims. In Morocco, for Eid you sacrifice a ram for your family. The religious significance refers to when Abraham sacrifices his son, Ishmael for God. (Yes, this is in the Qur’an as well.) Unfortunately, I am not well versed in the whole religious background, but this is what it is symbolized in sacrificing the Ram. The ram is killed humanely, with two quick slashes movements, and a very sharp knife, to slit the throat and main artery. Yes, this sounds gruesome, but the ram is rewarded for its sacrifice and goes immediately to heaven. The sacrifice must be performed by a pious man, to be sure the ram does not suffer.
After the sacrifice, the head is removed and it is hung upside down to finish, well, draining. The process of skinning begins now. Usually, the slit a couple holes in the ankles and blow into them to inflate the skin. This apparently makes it easier to remove the skin. Very cleanly and efficiently, the skin is removed and thrown away. The next part is when the begin removing the insides. (They let no part of this ram go to waste. Which is good because you wouldn’t want to sacrifice an animal and then let it go to waste. It is serving a complete purpose.) They remove EVERYTHING, and then proceed to pass the organs to someone to clean and start preparing. (Organ BBQ is usually the lunch you have that first day.) Once everything is removed, the remaining part of the ram is left hanging for the day, and then the remaining meat is removed after. The meat is used in a variety of ways: lots of BBQ, in couscous, soup, etc. You then feast on it for three days.
Okay, so my personal experience with the holiday. First I’d like to point out how proud I am of myself for being able to handle watching, not one, but TWO sacrifices. I was nervous, not going to lie. Animal sacrifices are not something you see in America, but I was determined to watch this. It’s important to their culture, and religion. I’d like to point out that my host family was THRILLED when I told them I’d be around this weekend. That just confirmed that I would have to be brave and watch. This is clearly something they wanted to share with me.
The morning comes, they’re all excited and the butchers arrive. Ram number one is removed from its tie and brought to the middle of the terrace. I’m bracing myself, really unsure as to how I’m going to handle this. I just keep reminding myself of its religious and cultural significance; also that the ram doesn’t suffer and goes straight to ram heaven. In two fell slices, the neck is slit. Slightly appalled at the amount of blood, I step further back. (I was already a fairly good distance away.) Then, in one final flail, the ram moves….thus sending a rather large spray of blood…right at me and my one of my host cousins. Imen and I were both officially covered in blood. It was on my face, neck, arms, and clothes. She screams, and I take a deep breath. This was a bit much. My family of course, thought it was hysterical. Thanks guy. Refusing to be deterred, I quickly wash my face and head back up. (Partially because I knew if I stopped to think about it too much I’d probably have a hard time convincing myself to watch the rest.) I think my family was thoroughly impressed that I didn’t make nearly as much noise as Imen, because she should be used to this.  The skinning didn’t bother me as much as I thought it would. However, when they started unwinding the intestine, I started to question how much longer I’d stay. After a mental argument, I decided to stay for the whole thing, and simply not watch it again when the second ram was sacrificed. (I mean, essentially, they’re going to look the same. So no need to completely watch the second one as well.) Host grandmother started dissecting a cutting up the various insides (Including the heart, lungs, liver, kidneys, stomach and stomach lining. Oh, the testicles are also a delicacy.) We then went inside to watch the King sacrifice two rams as well. Badr, host cousin who I was introduced to finally (he lives upstairs from us) explained that this is normal for them. It’s a great thing. (Yes, he speaks English pretty well, WHY WAS I NOT INTRODUCED SOONER. Would have made communication a bit easier at times…) I politely explained that yes, I understand it’s normal for them, but not for us in America. Also that I’m glad I was able to participate in something to important to them. He appreciated this answer.
Ram number two comes out, my host dad was sacrificing this one. So after a couple picture of him and that ram, I excused myself, not feeling the need to witness a second dismembering.
                Later, I started a new mental mantra: “Don’t think about it.” I was served various organs on a kabob. I think it was liver. Okay, managed to handle that (it wasn’t bad actually.) Another point for me! That night for dinner, we had couscous…with a strange jiggley substance on top. Flavor? Fabulous.  Texture? Less so. But still, without thinking about it, I managed to eat some.  (I’m determined to at least try everything they put in front of me.)  Then yesterday, for lunch, I couldn’t handle it. Whatever it was, is tasted too strong for me.  However, not wanting to insult host grandmother, I complimented her cooking and discretely pretended to pick the food up with my bread (While really I was just eating the bread with a little bit of sauce on it.) Dinner was better, finally got to the actual meat of the ram. So we had kabobs and soup for dinner.  Today, still remains a mystery. Hopefully there will be no ram head in my meal…
                I am enjoying the family time though. Last night was spent playing card games, doing gymnastics and martial arts. (Apparently Badr is the champion for Rabat-Sale area in Muay Thai…) We had some good times and even though this holiday pushed me way far out of my comfort zone, I’m glad I was here for it.
WARNING: Following photo’s are graphic. But I’m serious.

The first ram:


Go to ram heaven my friend!


Anddddd, the heads gone. (I'm still praying it doesn't end up in my couscous today...)
 The skinning:


 There's the head...

 Is it just me or is it a little morbib that ram number two just watched it's friend die...

So obviously the first thing we had to do was take a family photo with ram number 2

No host dad, I don't want too look at the teeth of the head of the ram that was alive ten minutes ago...


Oh, that's my host cousin, Badr, sticking his foot in the skin...to try and finish dislodging it from the body. (bleck)

Success! Good bye skin.

Slicing him open...

Mmmm, that was my lunch. Just saying.



Stomach lining...

Don't really think there's much left in there...

Fun fact: That's the Gall Bladder, you keep this because apparently it helps to heal cuts...

Yerp, and there's that...

Host grandma was a champ at preparing those organs.

Host dad...should you really be doing that...

There are places like this on the street, where families can bring the head and feet to be burned.

Ram number 2, Host dad had the honors:


Okay, not sure you could pay me enough to inflate a dead animal



This is when I left, didn't need watch another round of dismemberment. Haytem (host brother) looks less then thrilled to be there too...

3 comments:

  1. Hi Kiley,
    Silver Lake here. We found your description of Eid very interesting. Our questions this week focus on the sacrifice.
    James asks, "What does brains taste like? Other organs?"
    Andrea asks, "How did they cook the meal, in the oven or over a fire?"
    As an aside, were there any special preparations/presentations with the foods?
    Paige asks, " Did seeing the ram get kiled make it hard to enjoy the food?"
    Isaac asks,"From seeing the pictures of this tradition it seemed very similar to Thanksgiving. If this is true, how are they different or alike?"
    We look forward to your answers. Thank you.

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    Replies
    1. James: I didn’t eat the brain to be honest, although I was offered it. I have friends that ate it though and said it has the texture of cheese and isn’t really all that great. The eyeball I ate was…interesting. It tasted mostly like the spices it was cooked in. Things like liver taste like regular meat for the most part, a little different because ram has a stronger flavor than beef. Even the regular meat doesn't taste like anything I’ve had before…it has a distinct and strong flavor. For the most part, organs just have a really different texture…which can make it hard to eat.

      Andrea: A lot of the cooking was done over a little grill type thing. They filled it with coals and then cooked the kabobs. It was also cooked in tajine, pressure cookers, etc. They cook it in all sorts of different ways with sauces, spices and soup. They make sure none of the ram goes to waste, they freeze it so tonight I had ram again.

      There weren’t really any special preparations, however there was the special presentation that some families do. Where they bring the head to get burned, the hair gets burned off, and then they cook the head and present it in the middle of the couscous. If my family did that, I wasn't there. But I have several friends that experienced that. I’m not sure how I would have responded if I had the head staring at me while I ate.

      Paige: It did make it more difficult, especially when we were eating the organs like three hours after they were slaughtered. As time passed though, like this weekend we had more ram, it didn’t occur to me as much because it wasn’t as fresh in my mind. Versus Friday, I was eating it when it had been alive three hours earlier.

      Isaac: It is considered their version of Thanksgiving, it’s all about feasting after the sacrifice. Literally, I ate so much that weekend. Family from all over came to the house and ate with us. Some prayers of thanks were given, although I couldn’t understand them.
      Some main differences are the fact that we don’t really sacrifice the turkeys in our backyards, and part of the reason this is a difference is because the historical background behind the two holidays is different. Thanksgiving is less of a religious holiday and more symbolic to the start of America. Eid is based religiously.
      However, the main similarity is that it is all about feasting with your family and the people you care about.

      :)

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