Wednesday, September 19, 2012

The gray area between the Morocco I know and the Morocco a citizen knows


                So there are a couple things I’m struggling with right now. My programs is looking at human rights and more in detail, migration into and leaving Morocco.  There is a large disconnect between what I’ve read and heard about. A HUGE disconnect, and it makes it hard to truly imagine what it’s like to actually be a citizen here.  I have seen basically nothing that indicates any of the violations I’ve read about. In general, people seem happy. The discontent seems minor.  It’s a beautiful country, yet I’m quickly learning that there is a lot as a foreigner I don’t see.
In preparation for this program, I had to read three books. One focused on human rights violations (specifically torture, disappeared people, prisons, uprisings etc.), one of transnationalism and women and the last one on migration out of Morocco; these books all had a common theme of human rights.

There were a lot of human rights violations not too long ago. There was a time when almost every family had a person who was forcibly disappeared. There was torture all the time in prisons, the “degendering”  of women in prison to help justify torture, etc. Now, I do realize that human rights violations happen in the United States as well. Guantanamo? Water boarding? We have all heard of these things. This isn’t including indirect involvement in violations. For example, the U.S has a history of giving money or weapons to governments that are far less than fair to its people. (Look up some events in Latin America, like the Death Squads in El Salvador during the ‘80’s.) The U.S was giving money to the dictatorship, which in turn, was using the money to help fund these squads. Now, you could always say, “The U.S didn’t knowingly give money to these causes specifically.” However, here does the line get drawn?
My point being that as you read this blog, you should keep in mind that no country is perfect. This doesn’t make the violations excusable by any means, but we need to be aware that this isn’t some “third world” problem.

Anyways, back to Morocco. There were horrendous human rights violations throughout history. None of these violations, disappearances or tortures are officially recognized by the government. There is nothing on paper anywhere. The only thing recording the heinous violations is the tales from the families who witnessed it or lost loved ones.
It was until last year, an absolute monarchy. The police are corrupt. In general there was/is discontent with the political system. (I think a lot of us can say that however.) Arab Spring happened as a result of discontent, and once street vendor setting himself on fire to make a statement about how badly change was needed.  So begins Arab Spring.

There are protests here every day. And yesterday I saw several and today I saw a few small ones, and one really large one. My class went to a lecture today from some leaders from the February 20th movement. (You should look it up if you don’t know what it is.) It was started by a bunch of young people, college age.  It took off as a movement. They protest every Sunday and meet once a week. Their protests played a role in the country becoming a constitutional monarchy. (However, this is not enough.) One of the leaders said that Hassan II was better than his son, (Mohammed VI, the current King) because at least he could admit he was a dictator. Mohammed VI puts on this front of being for democracy, to usually please the West, yet the people under his rule know the truth. They continue to protest against corruption and violations.

After the program, we were walking to the train station café to do some work. The three guys walked with us answering more of our questions. That’s when we saw the big protest. They explained how the protests work and how the riot police handle it. It was then that I started to see some of the violations they’ve been talking about.

How is it, that these things are going on all the time around me, yet I haven’t witnessed or even really heard personal testimonies. The only people that talk about it openly are the activists.  How is it that this country has two different sides, so completely opposite? How much of this do I want to witness? What am I missing out on in understanding because of this disconnect?

I think this is the hardest thing for me. Finding where the Morocco I’m getting to know, beautiful, friendly, approve of the King, ends, and discontent, human rights violations and corruption begins.  The activists really helped me to realize exactly how different the two sides are, and I’m interested to see how my view progresses with the semester…

2 comments:

  1. Good Morning Kiley,
    Silver Lake here with three questions for you.
    First, Julia asks, "What is interesting about the architecture there?"
    Second, Connor asks, "At the birthday party do the men dance? If they do how do they dance and what moves do they do?"
    Finally, Fred asks, "Can men get henna or is it frowned upon for them to get it on their hands?"
    Thank you. We look forward to your answers.

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    Replies
    1. Julia: The architecture here is actually really interesting.
      Buildings that are older are no more than three stories high. So when you enter the cities, there is a clear difference between the old city and new city. It is also very common for a house to have a terrace on the rough where they usually have sitting areas and hang their clothes to dry. In the middle of most houses is a courtyard of sorts, so there is a square opening in the roof that comes all the way down to the first floor. Most are now covered with some sort of plastic now to keep the rain out, but open on the sides. Also, there is a lot of intricate designing that goes into tiles and carving doors and entry ways. The old Medina, where I’m living, is less fancy simply because there is less room, but if you look at my next blog post, you can see some of the fancy work down at the biggest Mosque in Morocco in Casablanca.

      Connor: Men dance, but traditionally. The only time I saw men and women dancing together, was if it was say, a father and daughter. It’s very conservative in the sense of opposite sexes dancing together. Also, their idea of dancing is very different than ours. Grinding/ the awkward slow dance you see at all the homecomings and spring dances at school? Those don’t happen here. It’s difficult to describe traditional dancing that the men do. But they do at big ceremonies.

      Fred: I’m not sure if it’s something that is actually taboo, but I have never seen a man with henna. I think it’s more something for women to do, like in the U.S when women get their nails painted at a salon. I just think it’s a feminine thing to do. The women do their hands, wrists, feet, ankles and sometimes dye the entire bottom of their foot. It’s to protect a person from the Evil Eye and keep people safe. Given how segregated things are here, I’m sure men have their own ceremonies I just haven’t been able to see.

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